This off radar Tuscan archipelago is perfect for peak season peace, and offers a change to the rolling hills of Tuscany, the peaks of the Dolomites, and the coastlines of Corsica and Sardinia

May 2024…/ For those looking for a truly peaceful escape within Europe this year, the 'Wild Island' of Capraia is the perfect blend of tranquillity in nature, historic architecture, and welcoming community, harking back to a simpler time when Europe was less crowded and secluded spots were easier to come by. Perched on the island sits Forte San Giorgio, an Italian Fort to call your own, ideal for friends and family gatherings, and wellness retreats. Known by many as the most interesting building on Capraia, the Fort sleeps 20, and is available for exclusive holiday hire throughout July and August, making it the perfect place from which to discover one of Europe's last untouched beauties. With slow living and community connection at the forefront of life in Capraia, larger groups can make the most of the dolce vita together, with the most characterful and luxuriously rustic home as their base.

Striking landscapes

Still very much an undiscovered destination, only frequented by Italians and those in the know, Capraia was borne out of a volcano rising from the seabed, to which it owes its rocky and rugged landscape. The island still plays host to two volcanos, the eruptions of which have left it with a kaleidoscope of strikingly coloured rock foundations, which can be viewed on foot or by air. The island is centrally located in the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, which has become a much-praised conservation area, making it the ideal destination for nature enthusiasts, and meaning it is well protected both on land and sea, leading to incredible marine life in the surrounding ocean and unmatched landscapes and viewpoints from land, sea, and air.

For those who have exhausted the rolling hills of Tuscany, the peaks of the Dolomites, and the coastlines of Corsica and Sardinia, Capraia offers a blend of all three, and is unmatched in its vibrant colours and textures across the island.

Botanist's paradise

Capraia acts as a natural off-grid destination for many travellers, with phone signal and internet low on the list of priorities for those out walking in the remoter parts of the island. Instead, keen horticulturalists focus on finding the many rich heathers, grasses, and shrubs unique to the island. Flora and fauna lovers are spoiled for choice of hikes and treks during their stay at Forte San Giorgio, and the team will suggest the best hikes to take on the island, incorporating the small towns and historic sites, sea bathing, and more long-distance flora and fauna-filled hikes. Again, thanks to its National Park status, much of the land is completely untouched and unspoilt, offering a sanctuary for wildlife and migrating birds.

Three species of fauna are unique to the island: a mollusc, a slug, and an Italian wall lizard. Keen wildlife watchers can also spot Sardinian tree frogs, snakes, rabbits, and the mouflon: a primitive sheep known for their dark brown coat and curled horns. Bird lovers will be keen to spot the Corsican finch, which is endemic to Capraia, as well as the 40 species of resident bird across the island, including yellow-legged gulls, dazzlingly bright coloured bee-eaters, and magnificent birds of prey. 

A rich history

For families after a cultural break that beats the crowded Vatican, streets of Florence, and Pantheon combined, there is a 6,000 year history to explore during a stay on Capraia. Guests can explore the remains of Roman villas, medieval Churches, watchtowers and the more recent prison building all within hiking distance of the property. Forte San Giorgio itself has a rich history, and is the perfect jumping off point for an education of the island that dates back to the Stone Ages.

Guests staying on the island in August can also experience a unique cultural celebration, the Ferragosto on 15th August. During this, the church's statue of the Virgin Mary is carried out to sea to remind sailors of the debt they owe Her.

Car-free and care-free community

While only around 50 people stay on the island in the winter season, summer months see the resident population grow to around 300 and a handful of small bars, restaurants, and seaside shacks, pop up in Porto and Paese, for guests to wander in and out of as their fancy takes, for a quick glass of wine or aperitivo. For those used to the crowded streets of Europe, the sleepy community of Capraia is a welcome respite, with a community served by just four policemen, two grocery stores, one school, and four fishermen. Picking up fresh fish and produce for a delicious dinner to be enjoyed at the Fort is a friendly and sociable experience, making guests feel like locals from the moment they set foot on the island.

Capraia is also an escape from the cars and pollution that increasingly dominate even the most remote locations, with only one main road of 800 metres. Given this sleepy nature and smalltown community, Capraia is a true fairy-tale island, a throwback to simpler times, and an antidote to the tourist traps of Europe.

Highlights of a marine reserve

Capraia boasts 30km of shoreline, and the views from the Fort are dramatic and breath-taking. For those wishing to explore beneath the waves, the diving and snorkelling opportunities are plenty, with local experts arranged by Forte San Giorgio taking guests into the glass-clear waters along the rocky coast and into the caves. Thanks to the outstanding clarity of water, frequent sightings include lobsters, octopus, and tuna fish, and even sperm and rorqual whales have been viewed from the surface, with experts believing a group of these magnificent creatures reside in the northern part of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Dolphins are also frequent visitors, alongside swordfish, sunfish, and even sometimes marine turtles. In September 2022, an extremely rare monk seal was spotted on the island, thanks to the protection of the cave in which the species was known to reproduce in the last century, proving the huge benefit of the dedicated protection of the marine life surrounding the island.

For guests looking for some independence, rib boats can be booked for self-drive trips around the island, allowing travellers to explore secluded coves, make their own discoveries, and swim in complete privacy.

The perfect holiday property

After a period of restoration, Forte San Giorgio – a listed national monument – reopened in 2021 as a singularly individual property for private hire. Its British-Italian owners invited in designer Sue Timney (whose CV includes designer Paul Smith and theatre and film director Sam Mendes) to reimagine the interiors of this wonderfully sprawling building, bringing a light, natural style to the historic architecture. The fort is now a characterful island retreat, with 11 bedrooms (10 ensuite) set around the stronghold, with a variety of drawing rooms, terraces for sunbathing and dining, two infinity pools, a games room for billiards and table tennis and a contemporary kitchen for entertaining. It is available in July and August for exclusive buy-out hire for holidays, and Capraia serves as the perfect destination for a group escape away from the crowds to reconnect with nature and community.

Prices are available on request. For booking enquiries visit www.fsgcapraia.com or follow @fsgcapraia on Instagram.

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